When the AC isn’t on, the wobble plate inside the compressor is in the 0° position, so the compressor isn’t compressing any refrigerant. The pulley drives the compressor the entire time the engine is running. Late model vehicles use a clutch-less variable displacement AC compressor. Before you start, know the difference between a clutch type AC compressor and a clutch-less compressor After reading, go to this post to learn how to diagnose a compressor clutch problem. This is a full explanation of how the system works. If so, try the troubleshooting techniques described here. If you’re here, chances are you’ve tried to recharge your AC system and found a compressor clutch not engaging issue. It also gives you instructions on exactly how to do it.Repair Topics > Air Conditioning Symptoms and Repair > Compressor Clutch > Compressor clutch not engaging Compressor clutch not engaging Car air conditioner compressor clutch not engaging This will allow you to recharge the system if needed. You can get refrigerant from your local auto parts store or Walmart, some of which comes with a gauge. If all of this looks good, I think your problem lies in the amount of refrigerant in your system. If it isn't working correctly, it won't be telling the computer that your A/C compressor clutch needs to activate. I'm not positive on how you can test this, though. There is also a pressure sensor, which, when the pressure gets low (I believe), it tells the A/C compressor to kick on. While you are in the fuse panel, you might also check to see if the fuse is good there (assuming there is one). You can use this diagram to see how the relay lines up (if not exactly the same, it should look something like this): You can also apply power to the subject (12v) relay while checking continuity. As long as they are the same shape, they should be exactly the same. Change this out with another relay in the same fuse panel as they are standard. If the clutch proves out to be good, the next thing you can check is to see if the relay itself is bad. Usually, the bearings will be the first thing to go out on the clutch. If you can manually engage the clutch by doing this, you can prove whether the clutch is working correctly. You can test the clutch by locating the relay located in the engine side fuse panel, then jump the power to the clutch pin. The clutch is designed to be turned on and off as needed. I'm not sure there is anything physically wrong with your clutch or belt. Does the fact that the clutch is only spinngin part of the time mean that I should replace the clutch? And if so, how do I do that?.Does the fact that the clutch is only spinning part of the time mean that I should replace the belt? And if so, any special requirements other than releasing the tension on the belt, remove old one and repeat for installing the new one?.Can the power supplied through the relay go in and out(causing the clutch to start and stop spinning)?. When I later turned the car off and turned it back on, the A/C clutch was intermittently spinning for a few minutes and then stopped spinning all together. After that I check the relay, and it appears to be good. From there I check the fuse, and it is still good. So I checked the clutch to see if it's spinning, and it is not. I connected a pressure gauge to the low pressure end of the A/C tubes, and the pressure wasn't dropping once I turned the car on (my understanding is that it drops as the clutch engages - if that is wrong, please correct me). A while back it was the freon according to the previous owner. My '05 Mazda Tribute (just over 200,000 miles) is having problems with the A/C.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |